Swaziland's absolute monarch, King Mswati, and his government are battling an estimated 40 percent HIV infection rate among Swazi adults by talking openly about AIDS, urging people to abstain from sex until marriage and to use condoms. But as the monarch chooses a new bare-breasted maiden to wed each year, his government understandably does not stress monogamy too vociferously.

The prevalence of polygamy is in part responsible for HIV's quick spread in Swaziland. AIDS workers say that while they cannot change local tradition, they can try harder to educate men.

"I think the king could do more to set an example for men in this country," said Alan Brody, the Swaziland head of UNICEF. "It is men who take the decision about family planning and condoms, so if we don't get the message through to them we are not going to beat this thing."

In Kaphunga, Chief Mfanyana Lukhele has tried broaching the subject of AIDS at community meetings, but the hamlet's men usually rise and leave. "There are so many people who are dying and sick but no one will say what they are dying of," he said.

In a stealth-education maneuver, the chief invited the men of his 1,800-member chiefdom to a play, with free food to follow. But he did not mention that "The Tale of Two Futures" was a serial UNICEF-commissioned play to promote AIDS awareness among men.

The chief managed to get about 400 men to see the play. Of them, only six admitted to taking an HIV test. After the play, some were thinking about getting tested. "I have not had a test but after seeing this play I think now I must find out if I am infected," said John Ndlovi, a 50-year-old miner.

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